A seasoned lifestyle journalist with a passion for luxury trends and cultural analysis, contributing to elite publications worldwide.
Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.
The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.
“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.
A seasoned lifestyle journalist with a passion for luxury trends and cultural analysis, contributing to elite publications worldwide.